Alnwick Shrovetide Football

What to expect

Proceedings begin at 2pm, when the ball is thrown off the castle barbican. A piper then leads the procession down to the North Demesne of the Pastures, a big, usually boggy field overlooking the river with the castle as a backdrop. The players come from the parishes of St Michael and St Paul, around 150 a side, and the match is best of three: the first team to score two hales wins. There are small cash prizes for each hale and for good play. The finale is the best bit. The match ball is kicked into the River Aln, players plunge in after it, and whoever lands it on the far bank keeps it.

The story behind it

Shrovetide football was once a common sight in English market towns, a last bit of mayhem before the fasting of Lent. Alnwick's version has been officially recorded since 1762, and its roots very likely go back further. Much of its survival is owed to the Percy family: the game is played with the permission of the Duke of Northumberland, historically the Lord of the Manor, and the ball has traditionally been thrown from the castle by the Duke or a member of the family. Unlike some mob games that sprawl across a whole town, Alnwick's match keeps to its field, which makes it rather easier to watch.

Getting there and home

The nearest station is Alnmouth, on the East Coast Main Line between Newcastle and Edinburgh, about four miles from Alnwick; local buses and taxis link the two. Alnwick itself is just off the A1, and there are pay car parks around the town centre, which fill quickly on a busy day. From the centre it is a short walk past the castle down to the Pastures. Wear boots you are happy to ruin: the field is often churned to mud by the end of the afternoon.

Watching, taking part and tips

The teams are drawn from residents of the two parishes, so visitors come to watch rather than play. Arrive before 2pm if you want to see the ball thrown from the barbican and follow the piper down. Spectators line the edge of the field; give the scrum plenty of room, because it moves fast and without warning. For the river finale, find a spot on the bank early. Bring waterproofs, warm layers and a flask, as February in Northumberland rarely holds back.

Where to watch

Alnwick gives you two distinct acts: the castle and the Pastures. The council’s notice describes the ball leaving the barbican before the piper leads everyone to the field. Decide which matters more to you — the opening ceremony against the castle walls, or the match itself, with more time to find a comfortable place to stand. Trying to be at the front for both makes for a needlessly rushed changeover.

Football Heritage describes a field game between the two parish sides, with posts marking the hales. Once you reach the Pastures, take a moment to work out which way play is going and where you can stand without getting in the way. A spot with a clear exit beats one where you have to cross the players’ path whenever you want to leave. If you have limited mobility, ask about the permitted approach and the ground underfoot before you travel; neither the council notice nor the heritage account mentions a step-free viewing platform or reserved seating for next time.

Taking part

Winning the match and claiming the ball are two separate stages. Alnwick Town Council’s account puts the prize-giving before the ball is kicked into the Aln, after which players try to carry it to the far bank — so the result on the field doesn’t settle who takes the ball home. Keep an eye on the officials as the action moves from the field towards the water.

The river scramble is a custom to watch from a sensible public spot, not an invitation for visitors to wade into the Aln. Don’t scramble down a bank just because a player has, and keep the approach clear for the people running proceedings. Families should agree beforehand how close they’re happy to stand, and avoid jostling at the water’s edge for a last-minute photo. If conditions or access don’t suit your group, head off after the field game. You’ll have seen a complete contest without the finale, and the river can wait for another visit.

Make a day of it nearby

The Alnwick Garden is a separate attraction from the football on the Pastures. Its official site describes the Grand Cascade, the Bamboo Labyrinth and ornamental planting, and visits to the Poison Garden are guided. Check the published winter calendar and which areas are open before you book; the opening information we found doesn’t confirm ordinary weekday garden access on the expected football date.

Lilidorei, linked to the garden, is a different kind of visit built around imaginary clans, soundscapes and a large play structure. Its website talks about exploring the village and meeting its elves — a purpose-built family attraction with its own booking options, not part of the local game. The shared visiting page says its winter reopening date is to be confirmed. Both make good reasons for a longer Alnwick break once opening is settled, but don’t promise either as a warm place to wait before Shrovetide. Check admission and timings separately, and leave enough slack to reach the football without rushing.

Questions people ask

Where it is

Map pin shows the approximate area where the event happens. Open in OpenStreetMap ↗

Go straight to the source

Independent research. The organiser’s own information always wins — we have not visited or tested the journeys.

• Alnwick Town Council Shrovetide notice ↗
• Football Heritage: Scoring the Hales ↗
• Alnwick Town Council: ceremony and finale ↗
• Football Heritage: Scoring the Hales ↗
• The Alnwick Garden ↗
• Garden and Lilidorei winter visiting calendar ↗
• Lilidorei: attraction description ↗