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What to expect
Up to six apprentices from the Company of Watermen and Lightermen line up below London Bridge and race about 7.4km upstream, against the tide's last ebb and with the flood behind them, finishing near Albert Bridge by Cadogan Pier in Chelsea. In 2026 the start was at 1.15pm, and the winner, Callum Howard, took just under half an hour. Following boats, umpires and support launches add to the spectacle. Crowds are small, so you can usually find a riverside spot easily, and the race passes many of London's best-known landmarks on the way.
The story behind it
Thomas Doggett was a popular Irish-born comic actor at Drury Lane who relied on Thames watermen to row him between theatres and home. In 1715, to mark the first anniversary of George I's accession, he set up a race for young watermen just out of their apprenticeships, offering a coat and a badge bearing the horse of Hanover. He left money in his will to keep it going, and the Fishmongers' Company has run it ever since. It has continued through both world wars and the pandemic, and the winner's red coat and badge are still worn at ceremonial occasions.
Getting there and home
London Bridge station, on the Jubilee and Northern lines and with mainline trains, puts you right by the start. Cannon Street and Blackfriars are also close to the early part of the course. For the finish, take the District or Circle line to Sloane Square and walk down to the river, or stroll along the Embankment. As the race lasts only around 30 minutes, it is hard to see both start and finish, so pick one.
Watching, taking part and tips
Only qualifying apprentice watermen can race, so visitors watch. Good vantage points include London Bridge and the Thames Path near the start, the bridges at Blackfriars and Westminster, and Albert Bridge for the finish. Check the start time and tide on the day, as everything depends on the river. Bring a coat in case the wind picks up on the water.
Where to watch
Pick one viewing spot for the race itself, then explore another stretch of the river afterwards. The course runs between London Bridge and Cadogan Pier, and there's no promise you'll be able to hop between bridges fast enough to see the same scull more than once. A relaxed spot with a clear view of the water beats an ambitious chase across central London.
Arrive with the latest start information saved on your phone, and work out which direction the scullers will be coming from. The launches following the race will tip you off that something's happening, but you can't hop aboard — no public following-boat tickets have been announced for the next edition. Keep paths and bridge pavements clear for people just passing through. If you're taking photos, stay behind the riverside barrier rather than heading down steps or onto a landing for a lower angle. Choose a viewpoint that works for the shortest member of your group as well as the keenest photographer.
Accessibility and families
Plan your whole route, from station platform to viewing spot. A step-free station doesn't mean every nearby riverside path, pier or staircase is accessible. Look at the exact approach you mean to use, and find a level alternative if your first choice has steps. No accessible enclosure, seating or toilets have been announced specifically for the race, so plan around public access and facilities you've checked for yourself.
For children, explain that this is a short race passing along a long river, not a non-stop show in one arena. Have something else they'll enjoy lined up for afterwards, and don't pin the day on spotting every entrant. Keep them on the inside of your group, away from barriers, cycle routes and busy pavements. A nearby café or attraction makes a handy break, but check opening times and access, and don't assume a riverside business has a public toilet. If standing is hard, plan your break before the race comes past rather than hunting for a seat at the last minute.
Make a day of it nearby
Near the Chelsea end, Chelsea Physic Garden has plant collections, glasshouses and a café inside its walled garden. Volunteer-led guided tours run when available, so they're not guaranteed at a set time. Book garden admission separately and ask on arrival if a tour is on. It's a very different Thames-side outing, and ideal if you fancy some peace and quiet after watching the scullers.
Near the London Bridge end, Tower Bridge has its own visitor attraction, with the towers and Engine Rooms. Don't let the names confuse you: it's a different bridge from the race's starting landmark, so check the route to its entrance. Booking ahead is recommended, and the entrance queue is outdoors. Decide which end of the race you want to watch, then pick the attraction at that end — there's no need to cross London to do both. Keep your booking well clear of race time, and check accessibility, admission and any closure notices on the attraction's own official site.
Questions people ask
Can anybody enter?
No. The official rules limit it to qualifying watermen who have completed their apprenticeship and fall within the age limits. It isn't a public fun row.
Is the 2026 start time valid next year?
No. The official page gives 2 September 2026 at 1.15pm, which was that year's race. Wait for the next announcement.
Can I book a public following boat?
No public following-boat tickets have been announced, so don't count on boarding the launches that accompany competitors.
Is there a race-specific accessible enclosure?
Not that's been announced. Check your station, riverside route, viewing spot and toilets as one complete journey.
Is Tower Bridge the start?
No. The course starts at London Bridge. Tower Bridge is a separate attraction you could visit before or after watching from that end.
Plan your trip
STAY OVER
Make a night of it
Search places to stay in and around London. Add your dates once the organiser confirms the next one. Popular events can fill nearby rooms early, so check cancellation terms.
Find a place to stay on Booking.com ↗BY TRAIN
Nearest station: London Bridge
The start is beside London Bridge station; the finish near Albert Bridge in Chelsea is reached via Sloane Square on the Tube. Watch from riverside paths or bridges in between.
Check trains on Trainline ↗Booking.com and Trainline links are affiliate links — what that means.
Where it is
Map pin shows the approximate area where the event happens. Open in OpenStreetMap ↗
Make a weekend of it
Odd things nearby
- Ceremony of the Keys 1 miles · Every night of the year at 9.30pm (free tickets, released in batches and snapped up fast)
- Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival 1 miles · A Sunday in late September (2026: Sunday 20 September)
- Oranges and Lemons Service 1 miles · Around the third Thursday in March
Also in September
- Braemar Gathering Braemar, Aberdeenshire
- World Stone Skimming Championships Easdale Island, Argyll
- Widecombe Fair Widecombe-in-the-Moor, Devon
- Abbots Bromley Horn Dance Abbots Bromley, Staffordshire
Featured in our guides: London’s Oddest Traditions & Ceremonies · Odd Day Trips From London
Still to confirm before you travel
The race date and start time change each year with the tides; confirm them with the race organisers or the Fishmongers' Company before travelling.
Go straight to the source
Independent research. The organiser’s own information always wins — we have not visited or tested the journeys.


